Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh
If you book one day trip from Ho Chi Minh City it has to be to the war tunnels. In this post I’m sharing how we organised our visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh, what to expect and why we though it was worth the expense of booking a guided tour.
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The Cu Chi Tunnels are one of Vietnam’s top tourist attractions and welcome more than 1.5 million visitors each year. They are a fascinating relic of the American war in Vietnam when resistance fighters used local resources to out fox their enemies.
They were a must-visit for Mr Tin Box. But we weren’t totally convinced this was going to be a good day out for our kids. So I added a sweetener and booked a full day tour including the Mykong Delta where there would be a traditional lunch, boat rides and cycling to lighten the mood.
I’ll be honest and say we don’t usually book full day tours. They can be expensive, impersonal and poorly organised for families who need a bit more time. A lot also rides on your guide and how ready they are to entertain kids.
So, we were taking a punt on the tour.
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Is it worth visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels?
In my opinion the answer is yes. And here’s why…
If you know more about the First World War in Europe than Vietnam’s wars with the occupying French and Americans then you have a lot to learn. And there’s no better way to do this in one of the locations where history was made.
We also visited the War Remnants Museum during our three days in Ho Chi Minh City but it was at the tunnels that we absorbed the most information. This is particularly true if you are visiting with children. The museum was rather disjointed and dry in comparison.
The tunnels are interactive and if you get a good guide like us there’s plenty of Horrible History-style facts to keep all ages entertained.
What are the Cu Chi Tunnels?
The tunnels were built by Cu Chi locals and resistance fighters between 1946 and 1968, first as a defence against French colonial forces and then the Americans.
They served as a communication network between villages but also had meeting rooms, kitchens, medical facilities, dormitories and armouries.
It was possible to build such a complex tunnel network because of the clay-like soil here. It was so dense and stable that the tunnels were able to stretch 250km from the Cambodian border to Ho Chi Minh City.
Some cafes in the city still have hidden entrances because the owners’ grandparents were linked to the resistance.
It’s incredible to think much of this was done with only very basic tools.
The tunnels were built in three levels. The highest was three meters underground. This was where people lived and met because there was more oxygen from the surface.
The lowest level was 10 to 12 meters down. This is where the fighters retreated when they were under attack. It’s also where there were traps to capture ‘tunnel rats’ – the few enemy soldiers small enough to navigate the passages.
The Cu Chi tunnels you can visit at Ben Dinh or Ben Duoc have been made at least two times larger for tourists so you can crouch your way through them.
Which is better, Ben Dinh or Ben Duoc tunnels?
We only visited the Ben Dinh tunnels I so can’t give you a full comparison with Ben Duoc.
However, from our research before the trip I know that Ben Duoc is a bit further away from Ho Chi Minh City so there are fewer tour groups. I also know that both visitor centres offer a lot of the same experiences.
At Ben Duoc you will also find:
- A memorial temple
- A lake
- A captured C130 airplane
- A larger network of tunnels open to visitors.
Handily Jenny and Jay from Travelynn Family can give you a full run down on the Cu Chu Tunnels at Den Duoc and how to visit them independently.
Read on to find out more about the tunnels at Ben Dinh.
What can you see at the Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh?
There weren’t a lot of other signs around the site so we were glad we had our guide, Khôi, who explained what we were seeing.
During the two hour journey from Ho Chi Minh City to Ben Dinh, Khôi had already begun to set the scene with insights into life in Vietnam now, the awkwardness that remains between the North and South, and how we may have been slipping up with the language.
It turns out that our poor grasp of the lingo meant that rather than saying ‘thank you’ we’d been telling people to ‘shut up’. Inflection is everything when you are speaking Vietnamese. Thankfully they are lovely people and aren’t offended when visitors slip up.
Weapons museum
When you arrive at Ben Dinh the first place you can look around is an exhibition of weapons and bomb shells used in the war.
We had arrived at 8.30am, ahead of the majority of the tours from Ho Chi Minh City, so quickly moved on to the jungle above the tunnels before it got busy.
Concealed entrances and man traps
Khôi invited us to look for a tunnel entrance – a challenge which our girls quickly jumped on. They knew it would be hidden and kicked up leaves until they found one in the clearing in front of us.
Khôi demonstrated how the hatches were camouflaged and where to look for markings on the trees that pointed out hidden entrances to friendly forces.
The Viet Cong were experts in hiding their presence, concealing air shafts and smoke from their cooking fires.
You can also see a staggering array of man traps at the tunnels. They were quite ingenious.
Some were designed to kill or capture enemies while others were designed to injure one enemy soldier and lure more in. Frog and snake venom was used on metal stakes to make traps even deadlier.
Resources and recycling
Something else we learnt about was the resourcefulness of the Vietnamese fighters. They would disarm unexplored bombs in juggle workshops and recycle the shells as well as other discarded American equipment.
Old tyres were used to make the ‘Ho Chi Minh sandal’ that tricked enemies into thinking you were walking in the opposite direction.
Can you go inside the Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh?
Yes. There is a 100 meter length of tunnel that you can stoop through with a ‘soldier’ to guide you. The entrance is inside a bunker and down a few steep steps.
If you decide you want to turn back at this point that’s no problem. You can take a look and climb back out.
This tunnel has been enlarged since the 20th Century. Khôi explained to us that tourists kept getting stuck. So what you experience today is a sanitised version of the passages that would have been used in wartime.
There are shafts to the surface every 20 meters from the 40 meter point. so if you’re feeling hemmed in you can return to the surface early.
I’m 5ft 7 and had to crouch down to get through the tunnels to the 60m point. Mr Tin Box, who is 5ft 11 made it all the way to the end but had to get on his hands and knees at one point.
Are the Cu Chi Tunnels claustrophobic?
Yes. If you get claustrophobic don’t attempt to enter the tunnel. You might be OK climbing into the bunker and taking a look into the tunnel but once you are inside it you cannot turn around.
There are lights in the tunnel but not at regular enough intervals that the whole length is well illuminated. There are dark areas between the electric lights and the exit shafts.
The first exit to the surface is at 40 meters.
The shooting range
An activity which costs extra is the Cu Chi Tunnels shooting range. The bullets cost 60,000 VND each (about £1.85) and the minimum you can buy is 10.
We decided not to have a go at this. But instead grabbed a cold drink from the cafe next to the range for a third of the price of a bullet.
Feeding the Viet Cong
As well as seeing how the Viet Cong and Cu Chi locals fought during the war we got an insight into how they lived.
Next to the shooting range there is a kitchen where you could have a go a milling rice flour and see how it was made into rice paper for spring rolls.
Our last stop was a field kitchen where we tried tapioca made from the Cassava root. This carbohydrate-rich tuber was a staple for the soldiers as it was easy to harvest underground.
It looks bland but is actually quite tasty when dipped in sugar and chilli.
What should you wear to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels?
We visited in August and despite it being well before lunch time and having plenty of shade we were still very hot. So wear comfortable, loose clothing that you’re not worried about getting dirty.
It wasn’t muddy when we were at the tunnels but it rained later in the day and I can imagine the ground getting sticky.
You need shoes that are comfortable for walking in. You will walk around 2km around the site.
We wore walking sandals and Crocs. I’d forgotten to buy the nine-year-old new KEEN sandals* before our trip – doh! – but these are usually my go-to adventure shoe.
Hats and sun glasses are also a good idea. Also apply some mosquito spray.
How to do the Cu Chi Tunnels
We booked a guided tour from Ho Chi Minh City that included visiting the Ben Dinh Cu Chi Tunnels and a half day trip around the Mykong Delta. Take a look at my Ho Chi Minh City itinerary for more information about the Delta part of our day.
I mentioned earlier that we don’t always do guided tours. We have had bad experiences in the past because families can often get left behind.
However, after doing a really fun private street food tour in Hanoi we asked the same company if they could find us a small Cu Chi Tunnels tour.
Our trip was arranged through TNK Travel. We had a great time with them and really rated Khôi for his knowledge, humour and the pace at which he led us. We were picked up from our hotel in a luxury mini bus, provided water and lunch as part of our full day tour.
There was a stop at a craft shop and cafe on the way to the tunnels. But there was no obligation to buy anything. We happily bought a drink and some snacks as breakfast had been early.
Similar tours for large and small groups are available through Get Your Guide*. I’d recommend booking one that arrives at the tunnels at about 8am. Definitely get there before 9am to see them at their least busy.
We felt that we got a lot more information from Khôi than we would have if we’d visited solo. There were very few information signs and the tunnels staff were not very chatty.
We managed to stay ahead of the wave of people throughout our two hour visit. By the time we left at 10.40am the car park was full.
Can you visit without a guide?
Yes! You can travel to the tunnels independently by taxi or even public transport and buy an entrance ticket when you arrive. At Ben Dinh this costs 90,000 VND per person (about £2.75).
I have read elsewhere that you are not allowed to wander around the Cu Chi tunnels without a guide or member of staff. It was hard to tell if the other visitors we saw were with a tour guide like us or a member of the tunnels team.
However at Ben Dinh there were staff at the man traps, the shooting range and the 100 meter section of tunnel. They were there more to ensure safety rather than to explain the place.
Where are the Cu Chi Tunnels?
The tunnel visitor centres are a couple of hours outside Ho Chi Minh City.
Here’s a map of where to find the Ben Dinh tunnels and the Ben Duoc Tunnels:
Summing up our visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh
This trip was a surprise hit with our kids. They loved seeing the man traps and being able to step inside the tunnels. It helped that we were in a small group and our guide pitched information at a family-friendly level.
There was a lot more to see than I had anticipated. The tunnels aren’t just tunnels. They are a living history museum with activities and experiences that help you to get a better understanding of the people involved in the war.
If you are staying in Ho Chi Minh City we’d definitely recommend adding the Cu Chi Tunnels to your itinerary. And if you have more than half a day to spare also consider visiting the Mykong Delta as part of a full day tour*.
More reading about Vietnam travel
Ho Chi Minh City was the fourth stop during our 14 day Vietnam itinerary which started in Hanoi, including an excursion to the famous Train Street, and then moved on to Ha Long Bay for a two night cruise.
Our next stop was colourful Hoi An for three nights and then Ho Chi Minh City.
The final stop for us was a a five star beach resort in Phu Quoc for a three night stay before we flew home.
You can catch up with the rest of our trip by checking out my Instagram account where there are three Stories about our two weeks in Vietnam.
Usually I’d also recommend the Lonely Planet’s destination guide to help you plan your trip, but I bought the Vietnam 2023 edition and was a bit disappointed. A lot of the information was generic and I spotted several mistakes.
I’d suggest trying the Rough Guide* or Eyewitness travel guide* instead.
